Mastering Stocks and Broths: A Comprehensive Culinary Approach Using Traditional Techniques and No-Waste Methods by Mamane Rachael

Author:Mamane, Rachael [Mamane, Rachael]
Language: eng
Format: epub, azw3
Publisher: Chelsea Green Publishing
Published: 2017-06-19T22:00:00+00:00

RABBIT

Rabbit was a common food for early Americans. There was such a natural abundance when the Dutch arrived that the Manhattan peninsula came to be known as Coney Island. Over time, however, rabbits lost their appeal as a popular food source and became a common household pet—their fluffy coats and floppy ears endearing them to kids around the world.

In recent years, food activists have pointed to rabbit as an ideal animal to raise for local consumption. Rabbits grow quickly, eat plants, and flourish in clean habitats without disease. They are easier to harvest than chickens. As delicate as their meat, rabbits are fragile creatures, and are startled easily, which means they are better suited for the gentle habitat of a small farm.

The taste of rabbit meat is often compared to chicken—mild in flavor, with only a hint of game. With its smaller anatomy, rabbit yields lean meat, a silkier mammalian version of domesticated poultry. It is elegant when served on the bone, yet hearty enough to hold up in a hunter’s stew. Rabbit bones are dense with cartilage and yield a stock full of body.

Look for farmers in your area who is transparent about their operation: Baby rabbits should feed on their mother’s milk; rabbits might have the luxury of living in colonies, or at the very least, within clean and spacious enclosures; and they should have access to fresh air in summertime. Their food supply should include supplemental feed, such as alfalfa or rich, leafy clover hay, with no hormones or antibiotics. A clean kidney is a good sign of health in a rabbit; some farmers will be happy to show you. You can use the entire carcass, including the head, for stock.

Basic Rabbit Stock

This white rabbit stock will yield a light, silken stock that works well in soup or a simple pan sauce. It is ideal for sophisticated dishes that require a delicate foundation. Fennel is an excellent foil to the subtle game. You can use this base in place of basic chicken stock.

ACTIVE TIME: 2 hours | TOTAL TIME: 5 to 6 hours (including heating, blanching, simmering, and initial cooling) | YIELD: Makes about 2 quarts (1.9 liters)

3 rabbit carcasses (about 4 pounds [1.8 kg]total)

2 quarts (1.9 L) filtered water, cold, plus water for rinsing and/or blanching

1 quart (680 g) ice cubes

½ pound (225 g) white onions, cut into large dice

1 pound (455 g) leeks, dark green parts removed, cut into large dice

½ pound (225 g) carrots, cut into large dice

½ small fennel bulb, coarsely chopped, fronds removed

4 sprigs thyme

4 sprigs flat-leaf parsley

1 bay leaf

8 black peppercorns

Sea salt to taste

Using kitchen shears, cut the rabbit carcasses into smaller pieces; the bones should fill the stockpot about halfway. Follow the cooking instructions for Basic Chicken Stock (page 166). Keep in mind that rabbit bones are a good source of collagen; the addition of chicken feet is not necessary. If a concentrated stock is desired, gently reduce the liquid after straining until the correct viscosity is achieved.

Roasted Rabbit Stock

This brown rabbit stock is rich and hearty, an excellent foundation for a hunter’s stew.

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